This new diner in Gurugram puts a contemporary spin on Indian cuisine

While the cosmopolitan metropolis Gurugram has a brimming café and bar culture, it hardly comes close to Delhi as far as fine dining is concerned. But that is gradually changing, with celebrated chefs like Vineet Bhatia stepping into the city’s culinary space.

After regaling diners with his last outing, Dhilli (in The Oberoi New Delhi), Vineet is now testing the waters in the Millennium City that boasts a relatively younger and more experimental population with his new restaurant Ziya. Cocooned within The Oberoi Gurgaon, it brings forth the splendour of Indian cuisine, albeit with contemporary flair.

Herb Paneer Tikka | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

They say, God is in the details. The team at Ziya seems to have followed it through and through. The 56-cover space’s blue-and-silver toned nested arched pods captivate your attention. The communal table also makes a statement but it is the hand-painted brass platters and cutlery that take personalisation to a whole new level.

Everything at Ziya seems Instagrammable. Was that a conscious decision? Vineet does not shy away from admitting to this strategy. However, he believes the food should always be the hero, or the hype will die down.

Taking cues from classics

At first, Ziya appears quite similar to Dhilli with elevated Indian food being the centrepiece. Gradually, you realise that the common thread is the sheer disinterest in gimmicks. None of the dishes served at Ziya are a mish-mash of ingredients; rather, it is a classic Indian fare taken a notch higher with tweaks.

“My dishes are always inspired by the land we are in. For instance, Ziya in Mumbai is influenced by the ocean. Gurgaon is landlocked and very different in terms of sensibilities. Here, it is not about the mithas (sweetness) of the coconut but chaat masala, ajwain or hing,” shares Vineet.

Aloo Toffee | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

For instance, there is the Goan balchao prawn toast that offers the familiarity of the Goan staple with added texture and flavour. The aloo toffee with Kashmiri chilli grabs your attention with its toffee-like shape but it will instantly remind you of the quintessential aloo samosa with a twist. There are chicken bonda lollipops too, coated with boondi for extra crunch, and paired with roasted bell pepper chutney. The only challenge was to eat it, given the flimsy stick on which it was mounted.

Chicken Bonda Lollipops | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

The small plates and mains are anything but ordinary. One of my favourites from the menu was the pan grilled fish on a bed of coconut khichdi, layered with sambhar. The idiyappam crisps on top were a welcome addition, adding to the texture of the dish. The sea bass fillet had the right amount of tanginess and crunch, leaving me wanting for more.

Pan Grilled Sambhar Fish | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

For vegetarians, the oven-roasted cauliflower with sesame raita is a standout dish. It has a chaat-like feel to it, with an achaari (pickled) flavour and garnished with coriander and onion. The sesame raita amps up the dish and cools you down in this sultry weather.

There are also Heritage Bowls on the menu that include classics like coastal prawns, ghee roast mutton and murgh makhani. I particularly liked the saag paneer wrapped in zucchini that almost melted in my mouth. It was paired with a mushroom naan.

“When you eat our food with your eyes closed, there’s always India in your palate. We never lose the authenticity,” says Vineet.

It is quite possible that your tummy would not have room for desserts. But I suggest grabbing mango malai till the mango season is on. It has a mawa cake layered with rabri and saffron jalebi with cardamom cream. If you love sweets, this one is likely to take the cake (literally).

Mango Malai | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

You can also go for the kulfi falooda cheesecake which presents one of India’s most-loved desserts in a modern format. While I liked the nuttiness of chikki at the bottom, I am not a big fan of rose as a flavour.

Fancy a drink?

Ziya also has a menu of cocktails and mocktails. I tried the jamun ras with gin, spiced jamun syrup, sugar syrup and lime juice. Since I love anything tangy, this one was my drink of choice for the afternoon. While the whiskey-based tamarind rhapsody sounded interesting, it was a little too sweet for my liking.

But what left me utterly impressed was the selection of tea blends such as Valley of Roses or Chanda by tea brand Newby that arrive at your table in a black box. Smell the tea leaves, take in the aroma and let your server dispense it for you, as you savour bite-sized treats alongside.

Ziya at The Oberoi Gurgaon lives up to its name, ensuring you experience splendour in every moment.

The restaurant welcomes children above the age of 12; dress code: full-length trousers and closed footwear. A meal for two at Ziya costs nearly ?9,000 + taxes (without alcohol). It serves dinner (7pm to 11pm) from Monday to Thursday and lunch (12.30pm to 3pm) and dinner from Friday to Sunday. For reservations, call +91 12 4245 1234.